Andrea Rodriguez, New York Times
Photo Credit: Ramon Espinosa/Associated Press
HAVANA — The sweet smell of fermenting fruit fills the streets around the modest Havana home where Orestes Estevez and his family fill glass jugs with grapes, ginger and hibiscus, then slip a condom over each glass neck to start the unusual process of winemaking in a land famed for rum.
From origins as an illicit backyard still, Cuba’s “El Canal” winery has become a flourishing business that annually produces thousands of gallons of wine flavored with guava, watercress and beets.